![]() ![]() Then mount the new battery in a case (waterproof if necessary for your conditions) somewhere else on the bike with a cable from it to your old izip casing. That could even be done using hte original Izip battery case (minus all it's guts), just as a giant connector. If any of the BatteryHookup packs are built in the same general way yours is (same number of series cell groups), you might be able to just take the BMS /etc off this one and wire it to the BH pack, even if it doesn't fit in your casing, as long as you are willing to deal with wiring the charge and discharge ports of the new pack to connect to your bike. You can probably keep using the same case and BMS, etc., just replace the cell module itself. Personally, I would replace all of the cells in the pack with new cells (or even used ones from places like BatteryHookup). If the cells are cylindrical, you won't see the swelling that would usually occur with cells damaged in this way that you can see with pouch style cells. If cells are actually at negative voltage, they are very likely permanently damaged, possibly in a way that could result in fire if recharged. Also, do those negative numbers indicate there are other issues, such as the BMS being bad, or is that just another sign of bad cells? ![]() My question is, is this configuration somewhat typical? Do you think I could find an aftermarket battery with the same voltage configuration? Most batteries I see don't provide this much detail. With a charger connected to the battery, the discharge port was putting out two different voltages, presumably the 54 volts is to power the motor, and I’m sure the low voltage serves a purpose as well. The battery is dolphin style and it would be very easy to replace it with a new aftermarket model that comes with a mounting bracket, which are way cheaper, but I have a question about that. Unfortunately, I’m not really equipped to rebuild it myself. They cost more than I would expect for a rebuild, but there may be a reason for that. A factory replacement is not available but I do see some rebuilt ones available. Needless to say, this is bad news, but I can’t say that I’m surprised, I have reason to believe that the bike sat unridden and uncharged for a long time. I have reason to believe this bike has low mileage, so this battery is probably worth trying to fix. For a second I thought maybe I attached the charger to the discharge port with the polarity reversed, but then I remembered that I checked the voltage during the one minute the charger was attached to make sure it was getting a charge, and it was connected correctly.Īny and all ideas and advice is much appreciated. Due to the (clear) shrink wrap I wasn't able to get to the BMS yet to try a hard reset, and this is where I stopped.Īn interesting note to add, and one of the reasons I decided to post this is, after I did the previous tests and attempts to reset the BMS, I got a very low but negative reading at the discharge port. I opened the battery case and everything looks new inside, there's no indication of any short circuits or water damage or anything like that.I tried a soft reset on the BMS by charging the battery for a only a minute via the discharge port, but no luck there, it still doesn't charge.There was 54 volts at the discharge port with the charger plugged in. When I plugged this charger in, the light stayed green on the charger instead of changing to amber and the fan turning on as it normally does when it's charging a battery. I tried a known working charger with the same specifications and plug type.The charger has a green light before plugging it into the battery, it blinks red when plugged into the battery, and there is zero voltage at the discharge port with the charger left plugged in. I attempted to test the output voltage of factory charger, but I think this charger is one that doesn't put out any voltage until there is a load.With battery off the bike and no charger, there is zero voltage at the charge and discharge ports, and obviously no lights at charge level indicator on the battery.The symptom the dreaded blinking red light on the charger, so I knew right away that aside from anything else that might be wrong, there's either a battery or charger problem. I have been down this road before, and thanks to all the amazing advice, tips and tricks I have received on this forum in the past, I at least knew where to start with troubleshooting. I picked up a used, non-operational iZip E3 Dash, the price and the challenge to get it back on the road were too great to resist :wink: ![]()
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